I'm preparing to write a foundation single crochet tutorial for the blog.  For those of you who are unfamiliar with foundation single crochet, it's the act of creating a row of chain and single crochet all at once to use as a foundation for more rows.  It replaces the initial chain that starts most projects.

The question I wanted to answer before I started the tutorial is which strands to go under on the initial foundation single crochet.  You start with two chain stitches, then you put your hook back into the first chain to start the first foundation single crochet.

In my little diagram above, I labeled the three strands of the chain A (right), B (back), and C (left).  I made samples that had me putting my hook behind AB, A, C, and AC*.

After making all the samples of foundation single crochet, I also made samples starting with a chain and single crocheting into the top and another where I single crocheted into the bottom strand of the chain (which is what I normally do) .

I compared my foundation single crochet samples with the traditional chain and single crochet samples.  The blue sample (C) matched the white sample (chain with single crochet in the bottom strand) most closely when viewed from the side and end.

But when I compared the yellow (AC) and blue foundation single crochet samples, I liked the profile of the yellow sample more.  Also, the yellow sample's leading yarn (the starting yarn end) was securely anchored to the piece.  

Many of the samples' leading yarns were loose and would tighten up a lot and pinch the end when you pulled them.  And, if you didn't pinch the end by pulling them, they were awfully loose and looked like they might unravel themselves.  The yellow sample couldn't be squished up by pulling on the leading yarn bit and it wasn't loose, either.  Perfect.

So now I just need to do the tutorial!

* As I was typing that, I realized I didn't do a version where I put my hook behind B, so I tried it real quick and compared it to the rest of the samples.  There was a weird space I didn't like.  I didn't bother trying BC because I'd have to twist the chains and I'm sure it would look weird.

Argh.  OK, so I just tried BC and it's almost identical to C.  So I'm still set on AC.

This way to do seamless single crochet is way-better than my original single crochet tutorial, especially if you're doing color changes.  Why?  Because it's simpler, the color changes are cleaner looking, and there are no complicated stitch depths involved. I posted a comparison of the two techniques if you'd like to see the differences.   Even a newbie will be able to follow this tutorial.

Notes
· The blue thing on my hook is a hook cushion.  I use them for comfort.  Since they cover up the engraved hook size, I write it on the cushion with a sharpie.
· My favorite hook is a 4.5mm hook, which I'm using in this tutorial.  I've been using this one since the early 90's.  It came in a set of crochet hooks I bought at the drug store.  I recently discovered this was not a common US hook size when I went looking for a back-up and had trouble finding one.
· I make my own paper clip stitch markers.
· I use TONS of stitch markers when I crochet.  Whenever I need a visual cue, I use a stitch marker.  So, if while you're using this technique, you find that you can never figure out which stitch is the first one of the row (into which you will need to slip stitch), then mark it with a stitch marker.  Or maybe you can't tell the slip stitch from the last stitch of the row after you turn, well then, mark the last stitch with a stitch marker.  There's no shame in using stitch markers.  Even after making dozens of my handbags, I still use stitch markers when I make them.

The text is above its corresponding photo.

FIRST ROW

1) It doesn't matter how you've done your first row, but for the sake of this tutorial, I'm going to start with a magic ring (here is a wonderful magic ring tutorial at Planet June) in which I will make 19 single crochet stitches. (The slip stitch that joins each row will take up the space of one stitch, so my 19 single crochet stitch ring will be 20 stitches around, practically speaking.)


2) Now slip stitch to the first stich of the row (insert your hook into the top of the first stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook).  The next two photos illustrate this step.



3) Chain one.


4) Turn.  The photo shows the already turned piece.  The arrows show you the direction you should always turn your piece when doing seamless single crochet.  Turn so the right side passes toward you and becomes the left side.

SECOND ROW

5) Make your next crochet stitch (which is the first stitch of this row) in the last stitch of the previous row.  You will skip the slip stitch that completed the previous row.  I marked the first stitch of the second row, which we just made, with a green paper clip stitch marker.


6) Continue around to complete the row.  As you can see, your last stitch is in the top of the first stitch of the previous row (the stitch with the red paper clip stitch marker.)


7) Slip stitch (put your hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops on your hook) to the first single crochet of the row (which is marked with a green paper clip stitch marker).


8) Chain one.


9) Turn.  The photo shows the already turned piece.  The arrows show you the direction you should always turn your piece when doing seamless single crochet.  Turn so the right side passes toward you and becomes the left side.


THIRD ROW (which is the same as the second row)

10) Skip the slip stitch that completed the previous row and single crochet in the next stitch, which is the last stitch of the previous row.  I marked the first stitch of this row with a blue paper clip stitch marker.


11) Single crochet around.  This image shows you the second to last crochet stitch of the row.  I wanted to show you that the place where you will make the next stitch, which will be the last stitch of the row, already has a vertical yarn coming out of it.


12) This is the last stitch of the row.  Complete the row as you would in steps 2 through 4 or steps 7 though 9.  Cake!

COLOR CHANGES

13) First, I want to show you what I mean by a two-row set.  When you crochet your rows back and forth, they create a natural two-row set that look like a single row because there is a deep rut on top and bottom of it.  I usually do my color changes in between these two-row sets.


14) Here we are at the end of a row where we've completed the second-to-last stitch of a two-row set.


15) To complete the last stitch of the row, put your hook in the proper place in the previous row, yarn over, and pull through a loop.


16) To complete the last stich, yarn over using the new color, and pull through both loops.


17) Tie the yarn ends in a square knot.  Sometimes I do this at this point in the crocheting.  Sometimes I leave them loose and tie them at the end when I'm weaving in all the ends.  It doesn't really matter when you do it.  If you do it later, be sure to not pull the ends too tightly because it might make the stitches on the front look weird.


18) Slip stitch to the first single crochet of the row.


19) Chain one.


20) Turn.  The photo shows the already turned piece with arrows indicating the direction in which the piece was turned.


21) Skip the slip stitch that completed the previous row (which is sage-colored) and single crochet in the next stitch (which is yellow and is the last stitch of the previous row).  Continue around.


22) Here is one row of the second color.


23) Here is a two-row set of the second color.


24) Here is the square knot when I switched back to yellow.


25) This is a shot of the "seam" in the seamless crochet.  It's easily detected by an experienced eye, but I think most people wouldn't really see it.


26) Extreme close up of the 'seam.'


27) This is the non-seam side, for comparison.

As always, I'd love any feedback you have about this tutorial.

I encountered this technique in Creepy Cute Crochet and the Flower Purse is my first opportunity to use it.  Before learning this technique, I would just pull the end tightly and weave it in.  That leaves a little bump in edge of the crochet.  

This technique show you how to "fake" a crochet stitch to connect the last stitch to the first stitch of the row, which looks awesome.

Explanation text is above its corresponding photo.

This is the end of the last row of crochet.  The stitch marker on the left is the first stitch of the row and the stitch marker on the right is the last stitch of the row.

Thread your yarn on a needle.  Put needle through the first stitch of the row under both top yarn strands coming in from the front of your piece and coming out the back of your piece.  Pull through.

Put the needle in the middle of the last stitch of the row (where the yarn end starts) and go under the top yarn strand that is on the back side of your piece.

Ta da!  After this, you can weave in the end and knot it in an inconspicuous place.  Since I'm folding these handles over, I knotted it a couple rows down because it'll be hidden in the fold.

This tutorial shows you how I hand sew a fabric lining into a crochet bag.  There is a line of stitching at the top of the fold in my lining as reference.  If you make a lining, you don't need the stitching line.   The Detailed Instructions are numbered to make it easy to refer to them (or keep your place) ... not each numbered item is really a step to follow.

You need:

the unlined crochet bag
the lining (use my lining tutorial if you need instructions)
needle
thread
scissors
pins
stitch markers



Basic Instructions

· Pin the lining into the bag
· Sew the lining into the bag

Sounds pretty easy, huh? :)  Perhaps I just have a flair for making the simple as complicated as possible, because a 28-photo tutorial detailing these two steps is below ...

Detailed instructions (text is above its corresponding photo)

· Pin the lining into the bag.

1) Find the crochet row where you will be sewing the lining into the bag.  I like to use a row just below the handle opening.  I marked the rows with red Vs to show you what I'm talking about.  You will only have rows that look like this if you crocheted back and forth.  You could use either of the rows.  I'll be using the one I'm pointing at.


2) Use a stitch marker to mark the midpoint of both sides of the handbag.


3) Put the lining in the bag.  Line up the lining's midpoint (for me, it's the snap) with the stitch marker.  Pin the lining and bag together so the top of the lining is aligned with the crochet row where you'll be attaching the lining.



4) I put the snaps in my lining in the exact middle of each side.  Then I align the snap with the stitch marker.  Since everything is lined up with the midpoint of the side, when my bag is snapped closed, the handles match up exactly and aren't off-set at all.

5) Close the snap and fold the handbag flat to find the right and left edges of the crochet bag.


6) Line up the fold in the bag and the lining seam and pin them together so the crochet row and top of the lining are aligned (where the picture says "left side").


7) Hold the bag so it's flat between two of the pins.  Put as many pins as you can between the two pins.  Repeat for all four in-between-pins parts.


8) Make sure you don't stretch or bunch up the crochet.  The fabric and the crochet aren't going to be perfectly the same size, because the crochet will stretch if you pull it.  Just do the best you can to keep from bunching it up in the pinning stage because that will make the sewing easier later.


· Sew the lining into the bag

9) Try to be slow and deliberate while sewing in the lining to minimize how many times you poke the hell out of yourself with all the pins.  I usually end up with several huge pin gouges.  In fact, I was already bleeding by this point in the photo shoot.  It gives me shivers just remembering it ... eeeewwwwww!

10) Cut a length of thread that is 3 times the length of your handbag.  That will be more than enough to finish the job.


11) Thread your needle and knot the thread.  This knotting tutorial is awesome.

12) Find a place on your lining that is lined up with a stitch in the crochet.  Any of the spots marked with a white arrow would work because they are just to the right of set of vertical bars that make a V.  Ignore my sewing needle marked with the red arrow.  I put it in when I took the photo to show you a spot, but now I realize it is confusing because you aren't supposed to start stitching here yet.  Sorry about that.


13) Come out of the top edge of your lining right at that spot to hide your knot behind the lining.  Remember, the stitching on the top edge of my lining is just for reference.  Here it is from the back.


14) Here it is from the front.


15) Make a stitch behind the two vertical bars of the crochet stitch.


16) You are just catching the two vertical bars.  Do not go through the crochet to the outside of the bag.  This part is not an exact science.  You don't have to get *all* of the yarn in the vertical bars ... just most of it.


17) Pull the needle and thread through.


18) Pull tight.


19) Put the needle into your lining so it's inside the top fold and comes out right at the edge of the next set of vertical bars. The needle is sandwiched inside the fold of the fabric.  I do not go through both pieces of folded fabric.  If you looked behind the needle, between the lining and the bag, you wouldn't see the back side of the needle because it's inside the folded fabric.  I've said the same thing four times here because I'm trying to be clear, but this is a tricky thing to explain in words.  Let me know if you still don't know what I'm saying.  Maybe this requires more photos.



20) Make a stitch behind the next set of vertical bars.  Pull your stitches tightly as you go.  When the stitches are pulled tightly, your lining will looked tucked into the crochet.




21) Here are the last couple of steps (14 through 17) as an animated gif so you can see what I mean.  The first frame is the one that also says "START."  OMG I wish I had time to make a video of this!  Animated gifs are so 1993 ...

I had to take down the animated gif because it was way too big.  It was eating bandwidth like cookie monster eats cookies.  I hope to come up with an alternative ...

22) As you sew, be sure not to stretch or bunch up your crochet.  Keep the pins in as long as you can and make sure that your stitches match up with the points you've pinned.  If you don't attach the lining evenly, the bunching and stretching will show up on the outside of the bag making it look uneven.

23) The first couple of times I sewed a lining into a bag, I didn't use a ton of pins.  When I'd get to the last couple of inches, I'd have a ton of crochet left and not much lining because I was stretching out my bag as I sewed.  That is the kind of mistake you want to avoid.

24) When you get to where you started, go back through the first couple of stitches you made.  To make my final knot, I put my needle through some yarn between two Vs, wrap the end of the thread around the needle, then pull the thread through the wraps.




25) I hide the knot by pulling my needle and thread behind the lining.




26) Here's a shot of the lining all sewn in.  I love the clean look of the lining edge where it's attached.  And since each stitch of the crochet has been used to secure the lining, the whole thing is pretty rugged and can withstand everyday use ... and washings.  My handbag is still going strong, and I haven't been very delicate with it  since I know I can always make myself a new one.

As always, I'd love to hear what you think of this tutorial.  Especially let me know if anything is confusing or wrong.

Well, it's unanimous ... everyone adores this gorgeous fabric!  It was bought to cover the serving tables at a baby shower.  What a cute idea, right?

When I was asked to make them I thought, "Super-cake!"  Then, when the ginormous 57-inch by 240-inch piece of fabric was delivered I thought, "Holy crap!"  Working large-scale has it's own unique challenges just like working in teeny-tiny-scale.  But I figured out a great way to easily do the hemming, so even though it wasn't super-cake, it was still cake.  And who doesn't love cake?!

Once I trimmed the huge-o piece of fabric into two tablecloth-sized pieces (thank goodness for the rotary cutter!), it was time to figure out how-in-the-world to hem the edges.  I sat there staring at the edge ... I knew I couldn't be fussy and do my normal "fold over the edge measuring as I go, iron, fold the edge again, iron, and then sew it" thing.

Then, as I stuck the fabric in the sewing machine to just "do something" I had an idea ... why not just sew a line half-an-inch in and use that as the fold guide.  So smart!  I'm so glad I thought of that before I started sewing a bunch of stuff I'd just have to rip out.

Here's the scoop with pictures:

(1) Sew along the edge half an inch in from the edge.
(2) Use the sewing line to fold the fabric over half an inch.  Then fold that over again another half an inch.
(3) Pin! The fabric should be wrong side up with the bulk of it away from you, like in the picture.  But your pins should be in the other way.  When they are in the right way, they'll be easy to pull out from underneath of your hem as you sew.
(4) See?  When you're pins are in right you can pull them out.  Or forget like I did a couple of times.  My sewing machine went right through the plastic heads like they were butter.  I love my sewing machine!  Sew a 3/8-inch seam.
(5) Here's the back side of the sewn hem.  All the raw edges are contained in the hem.  You can see the edge of my initial sewing line, but it doesn't look bad.
(6) And, finally, here's the front side of the seam.  Yay!
This system made quick work of this project, and that's saying a lot when you figure that I sewed almost 56 feet of hems.  That's almost nine yards!  Wow.  And the best part of this project is that they will have all this amazing fabric left over after the baby shower.  Imagine all the fun stuff you could make with it!  I keep imagining the cutest set of reusable grocery bags.  Shopping in style!

I tried to find it online so I could link to it, but I had no luck.  The edge says P/Kaufman, but that's it.  If anyone knows what fabric it is, let me know because I'm sure people are going to email me and ask.  It's a heavier weight cotton that has a stain resistant finish on it.

I won the intarsia contest for this book so long ago that I'd forgotten to expect Picture Perfect Knits in the mail.  What a happy surprise!  There are so many cool designers included in this book along with me, like my blog-friends Sister Diane of Crafty Pod and Manuela of Macati.  Rock!

If you've ever tried to sew vinyl or plastic, you've discovered that the metal presser foot on your sewing machine STICKS to it like nobody's business.  

What can you do?  The solution is simple: just put a piece of tape over the bottom of the presser foot.  Really, that's it.  I used an xacto knife to cut out the bit where the needle and thread go through.  When you're done sewing the vinyl, just peel off the tape. Ta da!

I used this technique to sew a vinyl dress and to add a pocket to the inside cover of a small notebook.

I'm so excited to tell you about the article I wrote for Interweave Crochet Summer 2008 Issue!  They have a reoccurring column called "Crochet Around Town" that focuses on the crafty/crochet/fun spots in a certain city.  In the last issue Vickie Howell wrote a great piece about Austin.   I almost exploded when Interweave emailed me and asked me to write a tour of crafty Philadelphia.

Andrew took this wonderful picture of me in MARCH.  I knew it was going to be published in the summer issue, so I tried to look summery.  It was 41 degrees outside when we did our photo shoot in the park, and I could barely feel my fingers.  My winter coat is sitting on the bench just out of frame.  Even so, the photo came out great!  Thanks, Andrew!

Back in the lazy days of December, I was thinking that in 2008 I'd really like to write a book.  Maybe finally publish some of my crochet patterns.  I thought I could kick that out in my spare time.  Well, writing this one-page article brought reality crashing down on my head.  It was a lot of hard work to pick the places, scope them out, write the piece, and get everything just right.  Do you have any idea how hard it is to write about a handful of yarn and craft stores and not say "yarn" every two words?  Heavens to Betsy!*

If I remember correctly, this article took every spare moment I had for a week.  (Which hopefully says more about my lack of free time than my writing abilities.)  That means I could write a 52 page book in a year ... with no time off, no movies, no concerts, and no *crafting*.  And 52 pages isn't much of a book, either.  Writing a book is more daunting that it seemed back in December.  Not un-doable, just daunting-er.  And now I have even more respect for how much work goes into craft books.  Well, any book, really.

So, if you feel like crafting it up in Philly, check out my article.  Or, if you're like me, you can walk around with the magazine open to my article and periodically point at my picture and say, "Hey, I know her!"  And, of course, the magazine rocks.  I've been thinking of making a loopy bath mat forever, and there's a cute pattern for one with great tips for getting uniformly sized loops.  And the Ocean Pearls Cardigan is way-adorable.  I love the ribbon tie closure.

*I've been finding myself using my Grandmother's exclamations lately ... and I'm liking it.  It's funny to see all the crazy looks people give you when they are used to you cursing all the time and you yell, "Oh, for Pete's sake!" instead of dropping the f-bomb.  It's priceless.  Not that I've stopped using the f-bomb ... I've just been mixing it up a little lately.  And, for the record, I'm not 100% that Grandma said these things, but I'm 99% sure she did.  My favorite expression I learned from her was "burr behind my eye"  as in, "Well Grandpa couldn't stand that man.  He was a burr behind Grandpa's eye."  Oh, that Okie slang sings to my heart.

I wanted to make something simple, fast, and feminine the other day.  I found this vintage seam binding in my stash and a simple shell-like button.  In about 5 minutes, I had this cute little bracelet.

It's pretty simple, really:

1) Cut your lace to the right length to fit around your wrist.
2) Fold over one corner.  I laid a pin across the end of the lace where I wanted to make the fold, then used my finger to fold it over and press it down.
3) Repeat for other corner.
4) Use matching thread to sew the folded edges into place.
5) Add a small button to one end and a loop of thread to the other end.
I've got a ton of ribbons, lace, and fabric strips in my stash that would look super cute as bracelets.  I bet you do, too.

This tutorial was originally posted on Whip Up August 2007.  Now that everything's blooming, I thought it was a perfect time to post it here, too.

Quick Felt Daisy Tutorial

Here's a quick way to make cute daisies from felt.

Supplies

* White and Yellow Felt
* Yellow Floss and a Needle
* Disappearing Ink Pen (or some other marking fabric marker/pencil)
* Two round things to trace: one big one little
*Scissors, and manicure scissors, if you have them


Directions

Trace your big round thing on the white felt. I used the cone that came with a pound of yarn. I used a purple disappearing ink marker to trace the circle.

Trace the little circle in the middle of the big circle. I used the cap from an "I Can't Believe It's Not Butter" spray bottle. I use the bottle (filled with water) to spray stuff I'm ironing ... that's why it was handy. :)

Cut out around the large circle.

Cut from the edge towards the center on the top and bottom side of the circle. Only cut up to the center circle line for these and all the rest of the cuts.

Cut from the edge towards the center on the left and right.

Cut between each of the four cuts. You now have eight cuts.

Cut between each of the eight cuts. You now have 16 cuts.

I used my cuticle scissors to cut the curve at the top of each petal. I have a pair of manicure scissors just for crafting. They are great for cutting small details in felt.  Especially in this case, since the blades are curved.

After I go around the circle cutting the right edge of the petals, I flip the daisy over and cut the other side of the petal.

This is what your daisy will look like after all the petals are cut.

To make the daisy center, trace your small circle on the yellow felt and cut it out.

Attach the yellow circle to the daisy petals with French knots.

Now your daisy is ready to be attached anywhere you'd like.  I’m put mine on a blue crochet handbag.